Lost in the woods

The Hermitage Guest House is one of my treasured destinations in the Western Ghats of Belgaum district, North East Karnataka bordering Goa and Maharashtra States. I read about this property owned by an Anglo-Indian family online and I was looking forward to experience their hospitality in the serenity of Western Ghats. 

I made my mind to spend a week end there and browsed their official website. Their website was so simple and had no high definition marketing category photos, rather had basic information with photos taken in an ordinary digital camera. I booked my stay for two days; but was little skeptical and had a doubt on my selves that did I made a right choice even after browsing their website. However I set my mind and as usual started my sojourn to Belgaum. It was mid April and summer had almost started soaring in the Deccan plateau of south India, but it was not the same in Belgaum. The early morning weather was chill and cold in Belgaum and I can see people using warm clothes like sweaters and mufflers in this April.   I reached Khanapur, a small sleepy town nearby Belgaum city to board the cab to reach the guest house. 

Road to the Guest House 

The cab took a diversion from the highway  and entered the deep forests; and there I was lost in the woods. Black tar roads slowly disappeared into forest mud paths, mobile phone signals dropped completely, humming of insects, chirping of birds, Noises of critters, strange sign boards featuring owl welcomed me to the jungle trail. Slowly my mobile phone lost the signals and I was completely out of communication network. A bizarre mood surrounded me at that moment while traversing the deep jungle with strange sign boards and it remained me of horror Hollywood flick movie.

 

Welcome Sign

One hour later my cab reached the hermitage guest house and I was awe struck right on the very first glimpse. The serene location in the midst of forest, beautifully done cottages and tree house (Called as machan) took me completely away, I dint even expected such an amazing place in the deep forest. I found some uniqueness here in this place, David & Morvarid had great efforts to make this place so special. The lanterns, symbols of owl, quiet corner silence boards, terracotta images, antique and vintage collections of household items attracted me. Completing my quick check-in formalities, I entered in to Kadaba – typical village home kind of cottage. The cottage was built in bamboo, woods and floor made with mud plaster. The cottage was cool with fresh aroma air and the cozy bed was inviting me to have a short nap. The open to sky- modern bathroom in my cottage was awesome; stones, small statues of aquatic creatures, organic bathing products and fresh bath linens fascinated me.    After my nippy shower with organic bath products, I was served with sumptuous meal. Mrs. Morvarid David is an excellent cook and special in Anglo-Indian and Parsee cuisines.  Most of the vegetables, grains, cereals and fruits are cultivated in their own farmland in the forest and they are cultivated in organic farming techniques. 

The Hermitage Guest House

 Later David took me to forest trekking followed by swimming in Kali river stream. Throughout the trek, David was very keen in observing the nature. He spotted Porcupine spines in the side of the road;  I collected some quills of porcupine to decorate my room. Meanwhile he gave me an interesting lecture about the fauna and flora of western ghats.

 

David - The mission man

 Evening I strolled in their mango orchards farm all alone and had a small conversation with the village people working in the farm. The kids from the near by village Nersa were happily playing in the orchards. The sun was slowly disappearing in the distance and the gloomy night was setting in. The nights in this farm stay are darker; as there were no electricity. The kitchen has a light provision with solar panels and that too for very few hours. 

Me and the Machan

 The dinner time is best time, no electricity and the dishes are usually served under lanterns. David and his family  definitely redefine  the word hospitality with their humble and generous personality. I was wondered that their daughter Katrina Fernandaz was also an nature lover and pursuing her Ph.D in nature and ecology from a prestigious Australian university. All the guests usually join together for the dinner. David got multitude of talents and one of them is  Bar-tending skills. 

Dinner Time

He made special cocktails for us from his mini bar.  My fellow guests were Wolfgang from Germany, who was on a vacation to India, two girls from Delhi working in software industry and Mr.Rajesh from Goa who become my close friend later. Our conversations started from monsoon in western ghats; pass through to scuba diving in Arabian sea, traveled up north about discussing Goan beaches, Varanasi ghats, Kasol in Himachal (Mini – Isreal ),  charas from mysterious parvati valley, world war II stories from Wolfgang to Katrina’s Ph.D from Australia.   

Lanterns

After interesting dinner, we bid good night to each other and headed to have a good night sleep.  The lonely dark night was mystifying for me, the night sky was alluring with the crescent playing hide and seek in the flying clouds, the forest leaves and trees shuttering to the gentle cold breeze, distance howling sounds of nocturnal animals. I could not sleep for a long time and I was flipping through some books under the lantern light.

 

Conversations with David & Family

The next day woke up to the chirping sounds of the birds and was warmly wished by David & Wolfgang. We had a short conversation over a cup of strong black coffee. Later I went for a morning walk in the forest fresh air of Western Ghats and I could smell the strange fragrance of natural herbs in their farm. The whole day I was resting in the hammock outside the Kadaba cottage and spent few hours in completing the books which I carried along with me. I also had an invitation to attend a tribal wedding nearby village. The rituals were simple exclusive and the bridegroom was colorfully adorned. That’s my India – celebrate every mood of festivity with colors. I simply loved the nature and harmony of this place: green serene and absolute tranquility where one can find the peace and solitude with ample wisdom from David & family.   

Bride Groom in the jungle

Due attention has been given to protect the nature, that captured my attention and they are very much conscious in preserving the forest green cover, protecting the fauna & flora; most importantly empowering the tribal people by providing sustainable livelihoods. 

Two days in this place was one of my best off-beat holiday destinations so far. No electricity, No huzz buzz of traffic, No TV, No newspapers, No mobile signals (That’s the best part for me) - Literally I was lost in this fabulous place. Thanks David & family for such a wonderful time.