Ziro Valley Diaries : A journey into the heart of the Apatani Tribes of Arunachal Pradesh

This September, I had the rare privilege of spending four unforgettable days in Ziro Valley, Arunachal Pradesh—a land where time slows down, mountains breathe calm, and traditions whisper stories from centuries past.

The Picturesque Ziro Valley

My visit was twofold: I was invited to deliver a scientific talk at PhysioSphere 2025, the first National Conference of Physiotherapy organized by the Arunachal Pradesh Physiotherapy Association in collaboration with IGTAMSU, Ziro. The conference itself was set in a picturesque village framed by golden paddy fields and pine-clad hills—a setting so serene that it felt like nature itself was part of the audience.

Delivering scientific talk by sporting a head gear of Nishi Tribe 

But beyond the academic exchange, Ziro offered me a life-changing cultural immersion. I spent a day with the Apatani indigenous tribe, one of India’s most fascinating communities. The highlight was meeting senior Apatani women adorned with Yaping Hullo (wooden nose plugs) and facial tattoos—a practice now fading into history.

The vanishing Apatani tribe of Ziro 

  

A few decades ago, Apatani women were considered exceptionally beautiful and often risked abduction by neighboring tribes. To protect them, the community introduced this tradition of facial modification—wooden plugs and tattoos that made women appear less attractive to outsiders. While the practice was banned in the 1970s due to stigma and employment barriers, today, these elderly women are the last living storytellers of a unique cultural heritage. Sitting beside them felt like touching history.

  

The Apatanis are deeply rooted in the Donyi-Polo faith, worshipping the Sun (Ayo Danyii) and Moon (Atoh Piilo). Their homes proudly fly flags symbolizing this cosmic balance. Linguistically, they belong to the Tani group, speaking a dialect of the Tibeto-Burman family. Ziro Valley, with its harmonious blend of ecology and culture, is already on the path to becoming a UNESCO World Heritage Site—and it’s easy to see why.

Lush green paddy fields of Ziro 

What struck me most was the valley’s living landscape of sustainability. The Apatanis practice a rare form of paddy-cum-fish farming, where rice fields double as fish ponds—a brilliant model of ecological balance. Their wooden houses, decorated with flowers woven into the walls, look like postcards from another era. The winding mountain routes reveal breathtaking views of valleys dotted with bamboo groves and pine forests. And yes, I even dared to taste their protein-rich cuisine—worms, insects, and bamboo shoots! It was both earthy and surprisingly flavorful, though I’m sure my  mother and wife would shake their heads in disbelief at my adventurous appetite.

  

One of my most cherished moments was at Bije Camp in Hong Village, the hub of Apatani culture. “Bije” means bamboo, and the camp truly reflected the tribe’s sustainable lifestyle. There, I met Tapi Gyati uncle and his family, who embodied the valley’s spirit of hospitality. They served us herbal tea, homemade plum wine, fresh fruits, and vegetables from their garden—even gifting me dry seeds for my farm. Such generosity from strangers reminded me why travel is as much about people as it is about places.

Medical Consultation 

Instagram Frame - House from Hong Village

Valley, Paddy Field & Ray of hope  

In addition to cultural exploration, I offered medical consultations during a community health camp—addressing fractures, non-communicable diseases, and fall-prevention strategies for elderly women. It was my way of giving back to a community that had given me so much in warmth and wisdom.

As I walked through the lush paddy fields, breathed in the crisp mountain air, and listened to tribal songs echo across the valley, I realized Ziro is not just a place—it’s an experience, a lesson, and a treasure. My time with the Apatani tribe was truly a lifetime memory, and I left with a heart full of gratitude, stories to share, and seeds—both literal and metaphorical—that will stay with me forever.

Travel Tip: If Ziro is on your list, don’t just visit—immerse yourself. Listen to the elders, sip their tea, join their conversations. Because in Ziro, every interaction is a doorway into history.

My sincere gratitude's to Dr.Duyu Nipa, Dr.Vineeth, Dr.Nabam Peter, Dr.Duyu Radhe, Arunachal Physiotherapy Association (APA), entire staff of IGTAMSU-Ziro for their incredible hospitality 

Exploring the Bonda Tribe : A journey into indigenous culture

I had the privilege to explore the remote regions of Koraput and Malkangiri districts, nestled in the southwestern expanse of Odisha state, India. Accompanied by Dr. Pratik, my dear friend and an alumnus from JNU-Delhi, we embarked on an informal assignment to delve into the health-seeking behaviors of the tribal communities. Little did I know that this journey would unfold into an enriching experience of a lifetime.

Duduma Waterfall in the Eastern Ghats

Nestled amidst the rolling hills of the Eastern Ghats and lush tropical forests at an altitude of 3000 ft above sea level lies a wild and picturesque territory rich in fauna and flora inhabited by the Bonda tribe. Our voyage to this hinterland, amidst the Kondakamberu ranges, commenced from Jaypore in Koraput district. Crossing the majestic Duduma waterfall on the Machkund River, we arrived at Onkadelli, a rural village serving as a weekly market hub for surrounding tribal communities.

The Colorful Bonda Tribe

The Onkadelli weekly market, held every Thursday, is a bustling and lively affair. It offers a delightful pandemonium that provides a unique opportunity to observe and engage with Bonda tribes, gaining insight into their way of life. Many tribes travel from distant villages surrounding Onkadelli, enduring long and challenging journeys to partake in the market's offerings.

Onkadelli Weekly Bazaar

The market serves as a hub for trade, recreation, and social interaction, offering a diverse array of goods and services. Roaming in this tribal bazaar is an experience by itself, watching the pastry of colors from the forest-grown vegetables to local fruits to medicinal plants, flowers, colorful lip-smacking snacks, and mahua drinks add to the vibrant atmosphere of the market. 

Lip-smacking local snacks

We got a reference of Mr.Uday Kumar, a local resident of Onkadelli village, through our generous host, Mr.Pradeep Agarwal, a prominent businessman based in Jaypore town in the Koraput district of Odisha. Mr. Uday, who operates a small medical shop in Onkadelli, proved to be a valuable resource for us. He directed us to a knowledgeable local guide, proficient in the dialects of the tribal communities. Mr.Uday gave us a few instructions before our trip to the settlements of the Bonda tribe. We were advised not to laugh at the tribespeople, as they could react with hostility towards outsiders. Additionally, we were cautioned against initiating handshakes with the tribe, not wandering alone in the tribal village, or taking photographs without explicit consent. 

Local Tribe

He also suggested that we carry an adequate amount of currency notes to offer as a token of appreciation to the tribespeople for allowing us to photograph them. Most of the tribals will be in a state of trance and drowsy due to excessive consumption of locally made alcoholic brews and mahua drinks. At times, they become violent and hurt strangers with their weapons, sometimes poisoned bows and arrows. All these instructions made me feel inexplicable, and my friend was in a perplexed state of mind to continue with the onward journey. I pushed him to take a chance in Odisha state, not knowing this land has India’s best-kept secret. 

The paddy fields & cashew trees

Our journey into the tribal heartland commenced from Onkadelli, traversing through the quaint residential quarters housing employees of the Machkund Hydroelectric Power Project before ascending the hills of the majestic Eastern Ghats. As our vehicle meandered through the landscape, we were greeted by lush green paddy fields juxtaposed with cashew forests, crimson-red soil, and rugged boulders adorned with verdant summer shrubs. As we drove further, the roads took serpentine turns to the peak of the mountain ranges. The view across the valley was spectacular, and we were treated to breathtaking vistas of rolling hills cloaked in lush greenery. The gentle caress of the valley breeze and the sight of billowing clouds over our heads provided a welcome respite from the scorching summer heat of the Deccan Plateau, soothing both body and soul alike.

The Bonda Tribal Settlement - Andrahal

We crossed a paramilitary camp with a helipad guarded by armed forces on the mountain summit. This camp was set up on the peak to counteract the infiltration of Naxalites in the region. The roads descended; the black tar roads disappeared slowly, giving way to the rugged mud trails. Twenty minutes into the ride downhill, we crossed wet lands and streams and reached the Bonda tribal settlement—Andrahal—completely cut off from mainstream civilization. The settlement was very basic, adjacent to a perennial stream. And the entire village thrives on this stream for their livelihood. The houses are made of bricks, adorned with earthen colors, and have dried lemon grass-thatched basic mud huts. I spotted marijuana clumps thickly around the hamlet, exemplifying the testimonial for Malkangiri stuff among the city dwellers.  With our local guide leading the way, we ventured into the settlement, religiously remembering the instructions given by our friend Mr.Uday in Onkadelli. 

Bonda: The most fascinating tribe

The most photogenic tribes of India

The Bonda Tribe stands as one of India's most ancient and primitive communities, boasting a culture that traces back thousands of centuries. Recognized as one of India's Particularly Vulnerable Tribal Groups (PVTGs), they are afforded special protection due to their status as one of the fastest-disappearing tribes in the country. As per the 2011 census, there are only 12,231 Bonda tribes left in this region. The Bondo Tribe were the first people to migrate from Africa around 60,000 years ago, according to anthropologists, and the first people to settle in forests in India. These Bonda tribes are short-stature people with Australoid features who still speak the dialect Remo-sam, an Austroasiatic language that is part of the Mundari group. They live in a semi-naked condition and indulge in killing outsiders who tread into their territory. They attract attention because of their attire and appearance.

The Unique Colorful Attire of Bondas: 

The Bonda way of living

 One of the most striking features of Bonda society is the traditional attire of the Bonda women. The Bonda women usually shave their heads and decorate their scalps with colorful beads and wild grass headbands. These headbands are known as turuba and lobeda. They wear a large number of colorful beaded necklaces called mali instead of cloth, covering the upper body part while a narrow skirt or ringa covers their lower body part. Apart from these, they wear heavy aluminum layers of neckbands, known as khagla. Bonda men usually wear a loincloth that covers only the front, and they always carry multiple weapons on their person. An axe always adorns their shoulders, along with a dagger, a sheaf of arrows, and a bamboo bow. In the past, these poison-tipped arrows were generously used, and even today, the Bonda people are famous for being extremely hostile, pugnacious, and heavy drinkers. 

The Rice Beer - the most favorite brew of the locals

While strolling through the village streets, we noticed a few tribal men lounging in the shade, their gaze fixed upon us. Mindful of the instructions from Onkadelli, my friend avoided making eye contact as we passed by. Upon reaching a corner of the hamlet near the stream, we came across a man engrossed in the process of brewing a local alcoholic drink called Hadiya. Nearby, locals tended to their livestock, observing our animated conversation with the brewer with curiosity.

The Hadia Brew

Our local guide facilitated communication as he explained the intricate process of making Hadiya, which involved fermenting rice, cashews, lemon grass, and other forest herbs. Atop a two-story vessel used for brewing, a stone was placed to securely seal the lid. Additionally, we observed a small, tender chicken sacrificed to the tribal god over the stone for a successful brew. This ritualistic gesture, coupled with the intense gaze of the tribesmen, heightened the atmosphere, prompting us to depart for the hamlet.

The sacrifice for good Hadia

The smartest Bonda tribal women:

A photo with the smartest tribe

The Bonda tribal women, adorned in their traditional attire, are often sought after for photographs due to their photogenic appearance. Many foreign tourists are drawn to this remote region specifically for the opportunity to capture memorable images and are often offered monetary compensation in return. This serves as an additional source of income for these tribal women. During our visit, we took several photographs of the women in their settlements and provided them with some currency notes as a token of appreciation. As we were preparing to depart, I expressed a desire to have a photograph taken with one of the women. She readily agreed, wearing a smile on her face. Following the photo session, I attempted to give her a Rs. 20 currency note, but she politely refused to accept it. Despite my insistence, she declined with a smile and said something in her Remo dialect before moving away. Moved by her humble gesture, I believed she had offered the photograph as a complimentary gesture because she liked me. I was praising her to my friend while moving ahead with our car. The local guide came running behind us and insisted I pay Rs. 50 to the lady. She is about to quarrel with us, as we demeaned her by offering Rs. 20. My friend immediately pulled out Rs. 50 from his wallet and settled the lady to avoid any kind of sacrifice in Bonda land. We just laughed at each other; our views are now changed, and we concluded that the Bonda tribal lady is indeed very smart.

Health care in Bonda Tribe

Sharing a lighter moment 

Through our interaction with the tribal community, facilitated by our local guide, we uncovered several troubling realities. The absence of a functional healthcare system was glaring, with diseases like diarrhea and malaria wreaking havoc on the population. Compounding these challenges, the area was once a stronghold of Naxalite insurgency, which hindered substantial development efforts among these tribes. Malnutrition-related deaths were widespread, exacerbated by the limited access to food and nutrition supplements, particularly for children and pregnant women who were supposed to benefit from the government's Integrated Child Development Services (ICDS). Perhaps most distressing was hearing accounts of childbirth occurring in unsanitary conditions, often in the open and even in running water. These revelations underscored the urgent need for improved healthcare infrastructure and support services in the region.

The Bonda Tribe is cut off from modern civilization.

The Bonda Tribe wowen

The most interesting part about the Bondas is their non-acceptance of modern civilization. I have not seen any mobile phones, satellite dishes, street lights, concrete walls, black tar roads, or so-called civilized people like me. They just live close to nature with very simple means of life. They have preserved and conserved their primitive social customs and traditions and are reluctant to change them as per modern civilization. Because of their isolated lifestyle and hostile, aggressive nature, mainstream development workers are reluctant to venture into their areas. Government officials like the public works department, teachers, health care officials, and politicians find it difficult to venture into their hamlets. This isolation has helped them preserve their culture even today.

My journey to the Bonda tribe settlements was truly enchanting, transporting me to a different era and providing a glimpse into the remote and unspoiled landscapes of India. It's an opportunity for me to dwell on the simple lives of those indigenous tribes in India. To conclude, I can say that Odisha state is rightly tag-lined; it's India’s best-kept secret.

My search continues to captivate yet another tale...

I extend my heartfelt appreciation and thanks to:

• Mr. Pradeep Agarwal of M/s Hotel Princess in Jaypore, Koraput district, for his generous hospitality and invaluable guidance.
• Mr. Adarsh from Wayanad, Kerala, a fellow traveler and adventurer, for capturing the remarkable photos that enriched our experience.
• Dr. Pratik, whose presence was indispensable; without him, this journey would not have materialized as it did.

Experiences with the tiny & mighty turtles

Sea turtles are truly global “citizens”, knowing no borders or boundaries. These turtles were one of the earliest inhabitants of our Earth around 100 million years ago since the era of the dinosaurs. There were 2000+ turtle species once upon a time and now only seven turtle species are left. Olive Ridley Turtle species are the most common sea turtles but are now placed under IUCN’s category (International Union for Conservation of Nature and Natural Resources) of being vulnerable and at risk of extinction.

These turtles are called scavengers of the ocean; fundamental link in marine ecosystems and help maintain the health of coral reefs and seagrass beds. Sea turtles are an important part of the planet’s food web and play a vital role in maintaining the health of the world’s oceans. The turtle eggs and meats were poached by local folks for higher prices in the market. And the tiny turtles fall prey easily to eagles, vultures, stray dogs, jackals, sea birds, and other sea creatures.

A tiny fishing hamlet Velas in Ratnagiri district of Maharashtra under the guidance of Sahyadri Nisarga Mitra – NGO and state forest department has taken constructive efforts to conserve the Olive Ridley Turtles.  Spending a long weekend in this Velas hamlet was unique experiential learning for me.  Joining with Sahyadri Nisarga Mitra team members, I experienced the vigilant patrolling techniques along the beach to ensure the mother turtles lay the eggs in a favorable natural environment, safeguarding the eggs with close monitoring and scientific data, retrieving and relocating eggs from vulnerable nests, releasing the hatchlings in the beach close to the waters when the temperature is perfect and ensure the baby turtles peddle to the sea with their tiny paddles. Inspiring night lectures, documentaries, and meaningful conversations with NGO team members about global warming and ocean pollution was an eye-opener for me to understand the importance of complex marine ecosystems.

Though the beaches of Velas and nearby places have enough potential for water sports and tourist attractions, the fishermen folks decided to take up the conservation project strictly saying no to any of the commercial tourist operations. The entire hamlet now focuses on conserving the Olive Ridley Turtles along with adjoining mangrove forest and made home stays as their alternative livelihood for nature enthusiasts and marine researchers. They host people at their homes offering them unique Konkan hospitality along with the glimpses of Olive Ridley Conservation Project.

What inspired me here is the eco-friendly model of sustainable development, where villagers are both stakeholders and beneficiaries.  Behind all these, there were sustained efforts of NGO Sahyadri Nisarga Mitra (SNM), support from the forest department, the government of Maharashtra, technical expertise from Mangrove Foundation, Wild Life Institute - Dehradun, and financial support and voluntary assistance from Tata Trusts and Deutsche Gesellschaft für Internationale Zusammenarbeit (GIZ) – Germany.

It was a worth riding experience for me along the western coast and western ghat from Aamchi Mumbai to Velas for experiencing the tiny and mighty turtles braving to the sea. Take a walk in the Velas beach and discover an amazing coastal ecosystem and coastal biodiversity. 

It's not the place you travel that makes its worthwhile. It's the people who meet you along way.

 Zindagi Na Milegi Dobara.

Pitch stop - 01

Sabarmati Ashram, Gujarat.

Shri. Sasikumar Vadamana & his son Anand traveled 1800+ km from Thrissur - Kerala to Sabarmati Ashram in their two bicycles. Inspired by Gandhian values, Sasikumar started his lifetime wish - Journey to Sabarmati Ashram on 2nd October 2021 with his son. One month of arduous bicycle journey through the toughest terrains of Kerala, Karnataka, Goa, Maharashtra, and Gujarat states, the father-son duo spread Gandhian thoughts and philosophies to the public through the language was a great barrier. Meeting them and spending a day with them in Gandhi's Sabarmati Ashram in the heritage city of Ahmedabad was a wonderful experience for me. I admired the spirit of Mr.Sasikumar and the influence he created in his family to go ahead with this bicycle yatra at the age of his retirement.

 

I personally feel people like him are the real Gandhians who truly carry forward the legacy of Mahatma to the new generations who are used to admiring Gandhi only in currency notes. I bow my head with reverence to both Mr.Sasikumar and Anand for their indomitable Gandhian Spirit.

Pitch Stop - 02

Badi lake few km away from Udaipur, Rajasthan.

Nauf Seyyal & his life partner Azzu, the youngest travel couple I ever met. Indian-origin mallu Nauf, raised in an Arab land, who had an illustrious career in Australia quit his job and flew to Incredible India to find himself traveling through her woods and roads. He completed his solo road trip pan India in 232 days on his super-cool Qafila (Auto-Rickshaw modified to a Camper Van) and continued another few months of trip with his girl Azzu until the country went into lockdown. They restarted their journey 2.0. Meeting this couple was an experience. One can imagine the countless stories of traveling the diversity of India in an Auto-rickshaw. 

Nauf & Azzu are adorable and super-cool couples, and we had a wonderful time with endless conversations while we swam across the secluded waters of Badi lake, watching the sunset in Aravalli ranges, partying till the wee hours of the morning in a very remote cafe. Later, I slept a few hours in their Qafila while the couple stayed outside on the coldest winter night. I felt more privileged when I learned, that I'm the first person to sleep in their Qafila. 

This is traveling for me. 

Not to see places, but to meet interesting people, listen to their stories, get inspired and be a life-long learner of life. 

Himalayan Hopes

I’m a curious and restless soul, and

That is the problem and solution to everything.

The mighty Himalayas and me

Himalayas has captured the wildest imaginations ever since I started reading travel genre books. 

Life at the 20’s is very special to everyone. You will be in free-spirits with vigor, zeal, and constant quest to learn more and go places to explore the world. 

Ladakh valley

Levison Wood is my favorite author and his book, walking the Himalayas always triggered my unbound love towards the mighty Himalayas. This COVID – 19 lockdown brought me to watch his series - walking the Himalayas by UK based Channel Four in Discovery Plus. Wood starts his epic 1700+ miles journey by walk from Afghanistan to Bhutan, via Pakistan, India, and Nepal the entire stretch of Himalayan ranges. Awe-struck and I rewind my memories a few years back to my 20’s.

The best travel companions - Cath, Som, Ling

It was my first solo trip in my 20’s to Ladakh valley between Karakoram ranges and Zanskar Mountains in the Himalayas. On a very tight shoe-string budget, I backpacked, hitch-hiked, stayed with locals and home-stays; I completed my first incredible travel experience of my lifetime. Since then, I become addicted to solo-traveling and the gorgeous Himalayan ranges.

Himalayan Bliss

• I learned many life-lessons in this Himalayan solo-trip
• Language is not a barrier to communicate
• Strike the best with first impression
• Strangers can become your best travel companions
•  Locals can share their house, bed, and breakfast to total strangers
• Body can survive on minimal calories – eggs, maggie, and chai
•  Listened to nomadic tales under a starlit sky
• Warm water is the best mixes for Rum
• Consuming Himalayan vegan leaves can get you real high ( Hope you get me right)
• Frostbite in the night and intense heat in the day portrays the life experience
• The best of the view comes from the hardest climb 

Leh Palace

Life is filled with rhythms and cycles as narrated in the nomadic story; cold and hot, day and night, snow-capped mountain summit and deep gorgeous valley, sun and moon, rich and poor, gods and demons, good and evil, joy and sorrow. And every human being is destined to experience these very often in his lifetime. The journey itself an experience to behold through the stunning views of Himalayan ranges, contrast terrains, and the highest motorable passes in the world.

The land of mystic dragon

Fast forward and off-late, I have been blessed with wonderful opportunities and immense possibilities to travel to many parts of Nepal and Bhutan on special official assignments from my alma mater organization, Navodaya Education Trust - Karnataka.  I pondered those great opportunities and with immense reverence I rewind my encounters in these Mountain countries.

Pokhra & Himalayan ranges

 With endless cups of chai, sitting on the terrace of my hotel at Phewa Tal lakeside in Pokhara - Nepal, I rehearsed my official presentations surrounded by the spectacular view of Annapoorna ranges, glistening peaks of Macchapucharre, Dhaulagiri and Manaslu snow-capped summits. I watched the spectacular sunrise from Sarangkot peak, an incredible Himalayan sunrise. It was an astounding magical sunrise to behold and the sun rose behind the Annapoorna mountain ranges. Nature played its best masterstroke in the sky – crimson red hues and strokes in the grey sky, the golden sun rays kissed the snow flaked Himalayan peaks, the sun emerged slowly as an orange-red bowl between the ranges, and started unfurling the gorgeous scenic landscapes of Pokhara valley. Standing there in the morning crisp year, I admired the mighty Himalayas and bewitched the luminescence of Himalayan eight-thousanders.

 

Mount Everest & Himalayan ranges

Bhutan, the land of Gross National Happiness is my favorite Himalayan land-locked country. Blogged enough about this mystical kingdom, I urge my readers to browse my old blogpost to experience the thunder dragon Himalayan experiences. The ultimate experience was witnessing the Mount Everest, Mt Lhoste, Mt Makalu, and Mt Nuptse on Bhutan – Nepal trip Druk air flight.

 

Explorer as always....

My curious and restless soul always crave for more such incredible experiences, as spending time in this Himalayan region is one of my life’s great experiences. No mountains can match their beauty and Majesty. I was fortunate to have glimpses of the Himalayas and its greatest terrains in India, Nepal, and Bhutan. I am astonished with this greatest bio-diversity on the planet earth with the bizarre diversity of cultures in an exceptionally hostile and incredibly beautiful environment.

 

Phew tall lake - Pokhra, Nepal

All I wish and long for is to experience the Himalayan ranges in Pakistan and Afghanistan.

Will I make it to those two countries? Will I cover the ancient silk-route?

Will I walk into the fairy meadows of Gilgit- Karakoram ranges?

Will my dreams come true? Dreaming all these, is it a problem of my curious mind or will I find a solution? Post-COVID 19 & my hopes are the answers, I have here right now.

Buddha Point, Thimpu - Bhutan