I had the privilege to explore the remote regions of Koraput and Malkangiri districts, nestled in the southwestern expanse of Odisha state, India. Accompanied by Dr. Pratik, my dear friend and an alumnus from JNU-Delhi, we embarked on an informal assignment to delve into the health-seeking behaviors of the tribal communities. Little did I know that this journey would unfold into an enriching experience of a lifetime.
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| Duduma Waterfall in the Eastern Ghats |
Nestled amidst the rolling hills of the Eastern Ghats and lush tropical forests at an altitude of 3000 ft above sea level lies a wild and picturesque territory rich in fauna and flora inhabited by the Bonda tribe. Our voyage to this hinterland, amidst the Kondakamberu ranges, commenced from Jaypore in Koraput district. Crossing the majestic Duduma waterfall on the Machkund River, we arrived at Onkadelli, a rural village serving as a weekly market hub for surrounding tribal communities.
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| The Colorful Bonda Tribe |
The Onkadelli weekly market, held every Thursday, is a bustling and lively affair. It offers a delightful pandemonium that provides a unique opportunity to observe and engage with Bonda tribes, gaining insight into their way of life. Many tribes travel from distant villages surrounding Onkadelli, enduring long and challenging journeys to partake in the market's offerings.
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| Onkadelli Weekly Bazaar |
The market serves as a hub for trade, recreation, and social interaction, offering a diverse array of goods and services. Roaming in this tribal bazaar is an experience by itself, watching the pastry of colors from the forest-grown vegetables to local fruits to medicinal plants, flowers, colorful lip-smacking snacks, and mahua drinks add to the vibrant atmosphere of the market.
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| Lip-smacking local snacks |
We got a reference of Mr.Uday Kumar, a local resident of Onkadelli village, through our generous host, Mr.Pradeep Agarwal, a prominent businessman based in Jaypore town in the Koraput district of Odisha. Mr. Uday, who operates a small medical shop in Onkadelli, proved to be a valuable resource for us. He directed us to a knowledgeable local guide, proficient in the dialects of the tribal communities. Mr.Uday gave us a few instructions before our trip to the settlements of the Bonda tribe. We were advised not to laugh at the tribespeople, as they could react with hostility towards outsiders. Additionally, we were cautioned against initiating handshakes with the tribe, not wandering alone in the tribal village, or taking photographs without explicit consent.
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| Local Tribe |
He also suggested that we carry an adequate amount of currency notes to offer as a token of appreciation to the tribespeople for allowing us to photograph them. Most of the tribals will be in a state of trance and drowsy due to excessive consumption of locally made alcoholic brews and mahua drinks. At times, they become violent and hurt strangers with their weapons, sometimes poisoned bows and arrows. All these instructions made me feel inexplicable, and my friend was in a perplexed state of mind to continue with the onward journey. I pushed him to take a chance in Odisha state, not knowing this land has India’s best-kept secret.
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| The paddy fields & cashew trees |
Our journey into the tribal heartland commenced from Onkadelli, traversing through the quaint residential quarters housing employees of the Machkund Hydroelectric Power Project before ascending the hills of the majestic Eastern Ghats. As our vehicle meandered through the landscape, we were greeted by lush green paddy fields juxtaposed with cashew forests, crimson-red soil, and rugged boulders adorned with verdant summer shrubs. As we drove further, the roads took serpentine turns to the peak of the mountain ranges. The view across the valley was spectacular, and we were treated to breathtaking vistas of rolling hills cloaked in lush greenery. The gentle caress of the valley breeze and the sight of billowing clouds over our heads provided a welcome respite from the scorching summer heat of the Deccan Plateau, soothing both body and soul alike.
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| The Bonda Tribal Settlement - Andrahal |
We crossed a paramilitary camp with a helipad guarded by armed forces on the mountain summit. This camp was set up on the peak to counteract the infiltration of Naxalites in the region. The roads descended; the black tar roads disappeared slowly, giving way to the rugged mud trails. Twenty minutes into the ride downhill, we crossed wet lands and streams and reached the Bonda tribal settlement—Andrahal—completely cut off from mainstream civilization. The settlement was very basic, adjacent to a perennial stream. And the entire village thrives on this stream for their livelihood. The houses are made of bricks, adorned with earthen colors, and have dried lemon grass-thatched basic mud huts. I spotted marijuana clumps thickly around the hamlet, exemplifying the testimonial for Malkangiri stuff among the city dwellers. With our local guide leading the way, we ventured into the settlement, religiously remembering the instructions given by our friend Mr.Uday in Onkadelli.
Bonda: The most fascinating tribe
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| The most photogenic tribes of India |
The Bonda Tribe stands as one of India's most ancient and primitive communities, boasting a culture that traces back thousands of centuries. Recognized as one of India's Particularly Vulnerable Tribal Groups (PVTGs), they are afforded special protection due to their status as one of the fastest-disappearing tribes in the country. As per the 2011 census, there are only 12,231 Bonda tribes left in this region. The Bondo Tribe were the first people to migrate from Africa around 60,000 years ago, according to anthropologists, and the first people to settle in forests in India. These Bonda tribes are short-stature people with Australoid features who still speak the dialect Remo-sam, an Austroasiatic language that is part of the Mundari group. They live in a semi-naked condition and indulge in killing outsiders who tread into their territory. They attract attention because of their attire and appearance.
The Unique Colorful Attire of Bondas:
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| The Bonda way of living |
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| The Rice Beer - the most favorite brew of the locals |
While strolling through the village streets, we noticed a few tribal men lounging in the shade, their gaze fixed upon us. Mindful of the instructions from Onkadelli, my friend avoided making eye contact as we passed by. Upon reaching a corner of the hamlet near the stream, we came across a man engrossed in the process of brewing a local alcoholic drink called Hadiya. Nearby, locals tended to their livestock, observing our animated conversation with the brewer with curiosity.
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| The Hadia Brew |
Our local guide facilitated communication as he explained the intricate process of making Hadiya, which involved fermenting rice, cashews, lemon grass, and other forest herbs. Atop a two-story vessel used for brewing, a stone was placed to securely seal the lid. Additionally, we observed a small, tender chicken sacrificed to the tribal god over the stone for a successful brew. This ritualistic gesture, coupled with the intense gaze of the tribesmen, heightened the atmosphere, prompting us to depart for the hamlet.
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| The sacrifice for good Hadia |
The smartest Bonda tribal women:
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| A photo with the smartest tribe |
The Bonda tribal women, adorned in their traditional attire, are often sought after for photographs due to their photogenic appearance. Many foreign tourists are drawn to this remote region specifically for the opportunity to capture memorable images and are often offered monetary compensation in return. This serves as an additional source of income for these tribal women. During our visit, we took several photographs of the women in their settlements and provided them with some currency notes as a token of appreciation. As we were preparing to depart, I expressed a desire to have a photograph taken with one of the women. She readily agreed, wearing a smile on her face. Following the photo session, I attempted to give her a Rs. 20 currency note, but she politely refused to accept it. Despite my insistence, she declined with a smile and said something in her Remo dialect before moving away. Moved by her humble gesture, I believed she had offered the photograph as a complimentary gesture because she liked me. I was praising her to my friend while moving ahead with our car. The local guide came running behind us and insisted I pay Rs. 50 to the lady. She is about to quarrel with us, as we demeaned her by offering Rs. 20. My friend immediately pulled out Rs. 50 from his wallet and settled the lady to avoid any kind of sacrifice in Bonda land. We just laughed at each other; our views are now changed, and we concluded that the Bonda tribal lady is indeed very smart.
Health care in Bonda Tribe
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| Sharing a lighter moment |
Through our interaction with the tribal community, facilitated by our local guide, we uncovered several troubling realities. The absence of a functional healthcare system was glaring, with diseases like diarrhea and malaria wreaking havoc on the population. Compounding these challenges, the area was once a stronghold of Naxalite insurgency, which hindered substantial development efforts among these tribes. Malnutrition-related deaths were widespread, exacerbated by the limited access to food and nutrition supplements, particularly for children and pregnant women who were supposed to benefit from the government's Integrated Child Development Services (ICDS). Perhaps most distressing was hearing accounts of childbirth occurring in unsanitary conditions, often in the open and even in running water. These revelations underscored the urgent need for improved healthcare infrastructure and support services in the region.
The Bonda Tribe is cut off from modern civilization.
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| The Bonda Tribe wowen |
The most interesting part about the Bondas is their non-acceptance of modern civilization. I have not seen any mobile phones, satellite dishes, street lights, concrete walls, black tar roads, or so-called civilized people like me. They just live close to nature with very simple means of life. They have preserved and conserved their primitive social customs and traditions and are reluctant to change them as per modern civilization. Because of their isolated lifestyle and hostile, aggressive nature, mainstream development workers are reluctant to venture into their areas. Government officials like the public works department, teachers, health care officials, and politicians find it difficult to venture into their hamlets. This isolation has helped them preserve their culture even today.
My journey to the Bonda tribe settlements was truly enchanting, transporting me to a different era and providing a glimpse into the remote and unspoiled landscapes of India. It's an opportunity for me to dwell on the simple lives of those indigenous tribes in India. To conclude, I can say that Odisha state is rightly tag-lined; it's India’s best-kept secret.
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| My search continues to captivate yet another tale... |
I extend my heartfelt appreciation and thanks to:
- Mr. Pradeep Agarwal of M/s Hotel Princess in Jaypore, Koraput district, for his generous hospitality and invaluable guidance.
- Mr. Adarsh from Wayanad, Kerala, a fellow traveler and adventurer, for capturing the remarkable photos that enriched our experience.
- Dr. Pratik, whose presence was indispensable; without him, this journey would not have materialized as it did.
