Showing posts with label Bhutan. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Bhutan. Show all posts

Tuesday, May 19, 2020

Himalayan Hopes

I’m a curious and restless soul, and
That is the problem and solution to everything.

The mighty Himalayas and me
Himalayas has captured the wildest imaginations ever since I started reading travel genre books. 
Life at the 20’s is very special to everyone. You will be in free-spirits with vigor, zeal, and constant quest to learn more and go places to explore the world. 

Ladakh valley

Levison Wood is my favorite author and his book, walking the Himalayas always triggered my unbound love towards the mighty Himalayas. This COVID – 19 lockdown brought me to watch his series - walking the Himalayas by UK based Channel Four in Discovery Plus. Wood starts his epic 1700+ miles journey by walk from Afghanistan to Bhutan, via Pakistan, India, and Nepal the entire stretch of Himalayan ranges. Awe-struck and I rewind my memories a few years back to my 20’s.

The best travel companions - Cath, Som, Ling
It was my first solo trip in my 20’s to Ladakh valley between Karakoram ranges and Zanskar Mountains in the Himalayas. On a very tight shoe-string budget, I backpacked, hitch-hiked, stayed with locals and home-stays; I completed my first incredible travel experience of my lifetime. Since then, I become addicted to solo-traveling and the gorgeous Himalayan ranges.

Himalayan Bliss

  • I learned many life-lessons in this Himalayan solo-trip
  • Language is not a barrier to communicate
  • Strike the best with first impression
  • Strangers can become your best travel companions
  •  Locals can share their house, bed, and breakfast to total strangers
  • Body can survive on minimal calories – eggs, maggie, and chai
  •  Listened to nomadic tales under a starlit sky
  • Warm water is the best mixes for Rum
  • Consuming Himalayan vegan leaves can get you real high ( Hope you get me right)
  • Frostbite in the night and intense heat in the day portrays the life experience
  • The best of the view comes from the hardest climb 

Leh Palace

Life is filled with rhythms and cycles as narrated in the nomadic story; cold and hot, day and night, snow-capped mountain summit and deep gorgeous valley, sun and moon, rich and poor, gods and demons, good and evil, joy and sorrow. And every human being is destined to experience these very often in his lifetime. The journey itself an experience to behold through the stunning views of Himalayan ranges, contrast terrains, and the highest motorable passes in the world.

The land of mystic dragon

Fast forward and off-late, I have been blessed with wonderful opportunities and immense possibilities to travel to many parts of Nepal and Bhutan on special official assignments from my alma mater organization, Navodaya Education Trust - Karnataka.  I pondered those great opportunities and with immense reverence I rewind my encounters in these Mountain countries.

Pokhra & Himalayan ranges
 With endless cups of chai, sitting on the terrace of my hotel at Phewa Tal lakeside in Pokhara - Nepal, I rehearsed my official presentations surrounded by the spectacular view of Annapoorna ranges, glistening peaks of Macchapucharre, Dhaulagiri and Manaslu snow-capped summits. I watched the spectacular sunrise from Sarangkot peak, an incredible Himalayan sunrise. It was an astounding magical sunrise to behold and the sun rose behind the Annapoorna mountain ranges. Nature played its best masterstroke in the sky – crimson red hues and strokes in the grey sky, the golden sun rays kissed the snow flaked Himalayan peaks, the sun emerged slowly as an orange-red bowl between the ranges, and started unfurling the gorgeous scenic landscapes of Pokhara valley. Standing there in the morning crisp year, I admired the mighty Himalayas and bewitched the luminescence of Himalayan eight-thousanders.
 
Mount Everest & Himalayan ranges
Bhutan, the land of Gross National Happiness is my favorite Himalayan land-locked country. Blogged enough about this mystical kingdom, I urge my readers to browse my old blogpost to experience the thunder dragon Himalayan experiences. The ultimate experience was witnessing the Mount Everest, Mt Lhoste, Mt Makalu, and Mt Nuptse on Bhutan – Nepal trip Druk air flight.
 
Explorer as always....
My curious and restless soul always crave for more such incredible experiences, as spending time in this Himalayan region is one of my life’s great experiences. No mountains can match their beauty and Majesty. I was fortunate to have glimpses of the Himalayas and its greatest terrains in India, Nepal, and Bhutan. I am astonished with this greatest bio-diversity on the planet earth with the bizarre diversity of cultures in an exceptionally hostile and incredibly beautiful environment.
 
Phew tall lake - Pokhra, Nepal
All I wish and long for is to experience the Himalayan ranges in Pakistan and Afghanistan.
Will I make it to those two countries? Will I cover the ancient silk-route?
Will I walk into the fairy meadows of Gilgit- Karakoram ranges?
Will my dreams come true? Dreaming all these, is it a problem of my curious mind or will I find a solution? Post-COVID 19 & my hopes are the answers, I have here right now.

Buddha Point, Thimpu - Bhutan




Thursday, December 20, 2018

High again in Bhutan!

One of the most attractive perks in my job is to travel a lot on work assignments. Official trips to beautiful locations with paid expenses are double perks. All these will never come as cake walk. One has to walk extra miles, burn midnight oil at times, and think out of the box to be considered for those trips. I should thank my organization for providing me endless opportunities at my workplace to learn and also considering and trusting me to represent them in different places.   


Druk & Himalayan ranges

I got another opportunity to visit Bhutan this February on official trip. Dreaming of Bhutan and one is already on cloud nine. This "Land of the Thunder Dragon" is unquestionably a Himalayan paradise, where religion and mysticism is the way of life. Traversing the snow-flaked Himalayas and charming mountainous terrain are real thrill with sky piercing majestic alpines dotting on the hillsides on one side and lush green valley on other side. After completing my meetings, presentations, networking sessions, official dinners in Thimpu & Paro, I got a gap day for my return flight to India. My friends in Bhutan strongly recommended Tigers Nest trekking as I was there already in Paro town. 


The crystal clear river stream


Nestled amidst this mystifying environment of upper Paro valley is the Paro Thaksang translates to Tiger Nest monastery, the bejewelled crown of Bhutan.  The Tiger Nest monastery in Bhutan is counted as one of the fascinating sights in the world due to its splendid visual appeal. Human imagination stays bewildered with the thought how this monastery could have been built at such an altitude of 3,120 metres. I started the hike to Paro Thaksang from Paro valley. It was estimated to take two and half hours to reach the destination at 10,200 feet above the mean sea level.  


School kids on an excursion



The trail started with a slow and gentle climb into the pine forest. In the midst of forests, I came across interesting Buddhist chortens. The cylindrical prayers wheels inside the chorten contain scrolls that were inscribed with Buddhist mantras.   The prayer wheels are water-powered in design, such that the natural water stream spins the prayer wheel clockwise. It is believed that the mantras inside are activated and released during each spin. These mantras are said to purify negativity, generate compassion, remove barriers to enlightenment and bring benefit to all sentient beings. 


Prayer flags 


Whenever I travel to the North Eastern states of India and countries in the Himalayas where Tibetan/ Mahayana Buddhism thrives, I’m always enchanted with the ubiquitous sights of fluttering prayer flags. They’re such blissful and mystical sights to behold, and so are the prayer flags here in this trail along with me. These Prayer flags are five colorful rectangular clothes inscribed with prayers, mantras and auspicious symbols. Each color represents the 5 basic elements: blue for space, white for air, red for fire, green for water and yellow for earth. Buddhists believe that balancing these elements brings harmony and good health to the body and the mind. 


Tigers Nest Monastery
Look deep into the nature, you will understand everything better. I stood awe-inspired in mid trek at one of the breath-taking views of the paro valley and tigers nest monastery.  I felt the surreal experience of green pine forests and beholding contour of the Tiger nest monastery parched on the distance cliff. The very first clear view of the tigers nest was a complete visual extravagance.  The trail was quiet challenging from this place, descend further through 700+ narrow steps in the valley with no handrails, cross a waterfall and ascend few hundred steps to reach tigers nest. The roof of the monastery is gold platted and it glittered in sunshine.  A mystic moment engulfed me at this moment; I was lost in the bliss of mystic surroundings. 


Surreal


An interesting story goes around this Paro Thaksang monastery dedicated to Padmasambhava called as Guru Rhinpoche in Bhutan. He was believed to be the second incarnation of Lord Buddha. His birth was pretold by Buddha. Guru Rhinpoche was born in Dhanakosha of Swat valley in Pakistan. Lord Padmasambava left to Nepal to practice secret tantric consort rituals of Mahayana Buddhism. He also introduced tantric Buddhism into Tibet. The entire Paro valley was under the control of evil demon in eighth century. Padmasambhava flew to this exact spot from Tibet on a back of a tigress. He subdued the demon using tantric Buddhism and magic dagger. Later the demon was transformed into a protective deity of the entire valley. Since then, he established himself on the summit.  Padmasambava took residence in a cave where he meditated for 3 years, 3 months and 3 days. The shrine itself, however, was first built about nine centuries later, and subsequently rebuilt many times. 


Let there be light!
It is an exhilarating experience to reach Tiger’s Nest Monastery finally.  Unfortunately, photography and videography were not allowed inside the monastery. I have to deposit all my electronic gadgets at the entrance. The beauty of the inner sanctum of the monastery is imprinted in my mind forever. The air was thin as I curved the inner complex of monastery. There were eight temples in the monastery where statues of Guru Rinpoche in his various manifestations were on display with beautiful religious paintings. The atmosphere throughout the monastery was mystical.  Next to butter altar lamp room, I found a path descending to a dark cave. The steps in this cave were made of wooden logs in between the giant rocks and deep valley. I maneuvered on those logs carefully to reach the basement of cave. The spot was breath-taking; behind me the darkest cave and in just front of me the deep green gorges and distant snow-capped mountains. I was exactly standing between the obscure darkness behind and optimistic bright light before me. I was enveloped with deep sense of calmness tranquility and peace. Trekking to this tigers nest was definitely a physical exertion, but at the end I feel it was indeed a mental relaxation sitting above the valley and clouds.  



A wish to live in the present!



While I greatly reverent Lord Buddha, I reflect on how many beliefs and philosophy resonate with me. This trail to tiger monastery was a faith to get rid of all my anger, ignorance, fury and resentments to reach Nirvana. In fact, Buddha himself has been quoted as saying, “The secret of health for both mind and body is not to mourn for the past, nor to worry about the future, but to live the present moment wisely and earnestly.”

Wednesday, February 12, 2014

BEAUTIFUL BHUTAN: Cloud 9 Experience!

Some of the most beautiful experiences in life have a straight genesis, perfect ending and leave a trail of everlasting memory in our mind. I felt more privileged when I was given an opportunity to travel to Bhutan on an official visit for three days. My experiences in this Himalayan kingdom are exotic and stay in this beautiful land was a real soul searching for tranquility.

My departure date was finalized and my itinerary was planned perfectly. The journey from Raichur to Hyderabad airport for three hours was not so much painstaking, thinking of flying from Hyderabad to Kolkata & Kolkata to Thimphu, Bhutan. I boarded the late night flight from Hyderabad to Kolkata and the waiting lounge in Hyderabad international airport was worth waiting in better facilities. My flight landed late night in Kolkata Airport and to my surprise the domestic terminal weared a sleepy look and maintenance guys were busy in pulling their gears for a massive work up. After collecting my luggage, I came to know the next day hardtal against the central government for rise in prices. Literally confused & terrified, no flight departing from Kolkata and I was burning my midnight oil for enquiring the flight schedules & Druk airways office which flies to Bhutan the next day. My English & half baked Hindi  made me feel alien in that Bengali land. At last a guy helped me out to reach Druk airways office in the next international terminal. I reached the office and found it closed as it was late in the night. I felt queasy and ill at that ungodly and unheavenly hour, keeping my fingers crossed in the waiting lounge.

 Modern Monk !

A Buddhist monk came approaching m e w i t h h i s shoulde r pa c k , American tourister backpack, Reebok shoes and gold plated wristwatch with a trendy hand phone. He smiled at me and I greeted him in return. My infectious smile befriended the monk within few minutes and I introduced myself to him and I learnt that his name is Lama (Monk) Karma, coming from Thailand after delivering a Buddhist religious discourse. He too was worried about the flight status the next day. Meanwhile our conversation went about Buddhism & Bhutan and I was keen to learn some facts about Bhutan without knowing, I will be flying to Bhutan or not. The anxious night passed in the lounge with the lama. By early morning I approached a coffee shop vendor asking the flight schedules. He said that there is no change in the departure as Druk Air schedule, as it flies early in the morning before the official hardtal timings. I thanked the politicians for having their time sense and broke the good news to Lama with a cup of freshly brewed hot coffee. When the baggage counter of Druk Airlines opened, we first dumped our luggage and got our boarding passes
and passed through immigration.

Cloud 9 Experience !
We boarded the flight after passing the routine welcome gesture from the air hostess and I occupied my window seat in economy class and the monk occupied his seat in Business class. I fastened my seat belt & observed the universal safety demonstrations by the air hostess, how to survive in an emergency?! (She demonstrated how to inflate the life jacket when the flight crash lands in water, but my plane will be flying over Himalayas.) The take off was smooth and finally I was flying from the land of hardtals to the land of thunder dragons. I could see the empty roads in Kolkata streets and the buildings shrinking in my eyes and disappearing in the clouds.

During the cruise, when the seat belt signs are switched off the air hostess approached me with her beautiful smile and said “Sir, would you like to have the seat in business class along with the monk. I accepted the angels offer and I occupied the seat in Business class. I wondered the Monks influence even in the troposphere and I felt the real experience of cloud 9 at that moment. My flight pierced the white Himalayan clouds at the rate of 960km/hr at an altitude of 32,000 ft. The flight was bumpy while penetrating the ash clouds due to bad monsoon weather; I closed my eyes tightly as I felt butterflies in my stomach and my neurons went to recollect the air hostess safety demonstrations.

Bountiful Bhutan !
The flight descended as we reached the Paro Airport and the view was stunning.We're flying so low I could almost count the crowns of pine trees in the steep forests below. Soon I could see the branches on the trees, mingling tentatively with loose tufts of vapor, whispering the presence of a mystery.  The view of the airport in the amidst of green deep valley was picturesque. It was an untouched haven filled with greenery, low and feathery clouds surpassing the Buddhist monasteries, Prayer flags fluttering in the hills, pristine river waters from Himalayas. Children on mountain roads stopped to wave enthusiastically as the plane descends below the clouds. I've been told that a safe arrival in the Paro airport takes a skilled aviator as the airport lies in between the valley of mountains. The flight landed and docked in the bay and I deplaned from the flight and took breath of fresh Himalayan air. The immigration & customs was quite easy and the immigration officer asked me the purpose of visit. I replied that I'm on the official visit to Bhutan and guest of Royal Civil Service Commission (RCSC). He stamped my passport and wished me pleasant stay in Bhutan.

Dressed in the traditional gho (kind of like bathrobe man wear it over shirt and boxers down to their knees and pull up their socks) the assistant HR Manager of RCSC Mr.Sangay Dorji was surveying the crowd of passengers who had just deplaned with my name on his placard. I felt so distinguished and I smiled at him. He quickly recognized  me and escorted me to the cab. Meanwhile I introduced the monk Karma to Dorji. He quickly agreed to take the monk with us in our cab up to Thimphu, the capital city of Bhutan.

The journey from Paro airport to Thimphu capital city of Bhutan was scenic.  The small Para town's architecture was stunning and encompassed meticulous carvings with wide array of colors. The  Paro chhu (River) flows along the Thimphu road with its gushing sound in the rocks. I was enjoying the ride while Dorji and Monk were busy among themselves. I interrupted them because of their language dialects and learnt Dhongkha was their National language. (I tried to spell it correctly for 5 times but I failed) I learnt some Dhongkha during the journey “Kuzuzangpo La” and “Tashi Delek” meaning Greetings & Thank you.

Mr Sangay Dorji being very young was very much curious to know about India and particularly bollywood. He even watched “3 idiots” for 6 times in Bhutan.I wondered the power of Bollywood magic in this remote and landlocked country.

Upon entering Thimphu, I noticed the marked difference between two cities, while Paro is protected haven relatively untouched with vast greenery and stunning architecture and Thimphu is bustling with city life and has a cultural identity. We dropped the monk in his monastery in the outskirts of Thimphu city and I thanked the monk for his bonhomie.

My stay was arranged in Hotel Kisa by RCSC, a boutique hotel in the heart of city. I enquired the front desk staff for the wi-fi connection or internet facility near by because of my obsession for internet. To my surprise the Hotel had wi-fi internet facility. Young women in kiras (Traditional Attires for females) rushed out to shift my bags to room. They seemed confused and embarrassed when I try to tip them. (Indian culture). None reached out their hands in response to my offering of folded Ngultrums. (Bhutan Currency) They went back away, smiling. Tiresome journey and strong appetite forced me to have quick shower and lunch. My next two days of programme was briefed by Royal Civil Service Commission persons along with the officials from Ministry of Human Resources, Government of India in the evening tea session. After the brief meeting, I went for a walk in the tinsel city. The roads were moderately busy with more young peoples freaking out in modern attires and some old age people in their traditional Bhutan dress.  The climate was cool and chill breeze intruded my jacket.  I enjoyed the mystic climate.

I woke up early the next morning, rehearsed my presentations for the day. The day passed uneventful and in noon I visited to Jigme Wangchuck National Referral Hospital,   the only tertiary care hospital in Bhutan with latest facilities, funded by Government of India.  I met some Indian nurses (Chetans & Chechis) from Kerala interacted with them and appreciated their indomitable spirit towards their service in any corner of the world.

Wangchuk Dynasty !
I had an opportunity to meet the Indian Ambassador for Bhutan at the Indian Embassy.  The meeting lasted for thirty minutes discussing the educational scenario in India & Bhutan. Enroute from Indian Embassy to hotel, all the vehicles in the road halted suddenly and the drivers came out of their vehicles and looking forward for someone. I learnt the King will be passing by and the locals stop themselves to show their respect to him. I was fortunate to have the glimpse of the King sitting front in his vehicle. The royal family from the Wangchuk dynasty seems to be truly revered by the local people. I learnt that the Oxford graduated King Jigme Namgyal Khesar Wangchuck was instrumental in fulfilling the concept & vision of Gross National Happiness (GNH) as alternative to the most of world's fixation to GDP. The term GNH was catchy for me and I was briefed by Dorji that Bhutan measures its success & economy not by GDP but by GNH. 
Further he added that Bhutan is happiest country in the world because of its lack of dependence in material items & power and their major income comes from exporting Hydro electric Power to India.

I feel so fortunate to have had the opportunity to spend some days in that independent and peaceful land with gentle people. Born in an orthodox Hindu family, raised in catholic schools, close Muslim friends since my school days, with few Sikh and Jain students my inquisitiveness to learn new cultures, religions and new ethos in all my past fascinated me to learn few things in this Himalayan land. I am so grateful for my life to have an entwined with some great persons.

While planning to go to Bhutan, I did not know what would lie ahead for me, as it was specially shaded by the mystery surroundings my Bhutan travel because of hardtal & but the Monk presence at that ungodly & upheavaly hour, the prospect was turned into my reality. Three days in Bhutan I explored the pristine environment and learned some beauty of Bhutanese culture.


Walking through the Himalayan hills deepened my appreciation of nature; spinning prayer wheels at the dawn gave me inspiration to continue my path with great dedication.
Tashi Delek


(This was published in the first issue of my college magazine - Nectar. )